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Diamond Glossary

Key terms and definitions from the world of diamonds

Annealing

Heat treatment applied after irradiation to stabilise or further modify a diamond’s colour.

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Asscher Cut

A square step cut with cropped corners, known for its distinctive hall-of-mirrors optical effect.

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Baguette

A rectangular step cut, often used as an accent stone.

Bezel Setting

A setting where a metal rim surrounds the entire perimeter of the stone.

Bow-tie Effect

A dark bow-tie pattern typical of oval and marquise cuts.

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Brilliance

White light reflected from the upper facets of a diamond back to the observer.

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Cape Diamond

A diamond with a yellowish tint caused by nitrogen impurities (N3 centre at 415.5 nm).

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Carat

A unit of weight for gemstones. 1 carat = 0.2 grams.

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Carbon

The chemical element that diamonds are composed of (99.95% pure carbon).

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Cathedral Setting

A raised setting with arched shoulders resembling a cathedral.

Clarity

The degree of internal (inclusions) and external (blemishes) imperfections.

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Clarity Characteristics

Internal and external features (inclusions and blemishes) used to determine a diamond’s clarity grade.

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Cloud

A cluster of tiny inclusions that can affect transparency.

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Coating

A surface treatment that applies a thin layer to alter a diamond’s apparent colour; not permanent.

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Color

Colorlessness grading on a D (colorless) to Z (light yellow) scale.

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Crown

The upper portion of a diamond above the girdle — contains the table and crown facets.

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Crown Angle

The angle between the bezel (crown main) facets and the girdle plane, influencing the balance of fire and brilliance.

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Culet

A small facet or point at the very bottom of the pavilion.

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Cushion Cut

A rounded square or rectangular cut with large facets.

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CVD

Chemical Vapor Deposition — a method for creating lab-grown diamonds.

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Depth

The distance from table to culet, expressed as a percentage of diameter.

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Depth Percentage

The total height of a diamond divided by its average girdle diameter, expressed as a percentage.

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Diamond Grading Report

A document issued by a gemological laboratory detailing a diamond’s 4Cs, measurements, and identifying characteristics.

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Dispersion

The splitting of white light into a rainbow spectrum — a diamond’s "fire."

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Emerald Cut

A rectangular step cut with rounded corners.

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Eye-clean

A diamond with no inclusions visible to the naked eye.

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Facet

A smooth flat surface polished onto the surface of a diamond.

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Fancy Color

A diamond with a distinct natural color beyond the D–Z scale.

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Fancy Vivid

The highest colour saturation grade for fancy coloured diamonds, indicating the most intense and pure colour.

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Feather

A thin crack inside a diamond resembling a bird’s feather.

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Finish

The combined assessment of a diamond’s polish and symmetry quality.

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Fire

Rainbow flashes created by the dispersion of light in a diamond.

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Fluorescence

Visible glow of a diamond under ultraviolet light.

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Fluorescence Grades

The five-point scale used to describe fluorescence intensity: None, Faint, Medium, Strong, and Very Strong.

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Four Cs (4C)

Color, Clarity, Cut, and Carat — the universal diamond quality factors.

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Fracture Filling

A clarity treatment in which a glass-like substance is injected into surface-reaching fractures to reduce their visibility.

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FTIR

Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, used to classify diamond type (I/II) and detect certain treatments.

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GIA

Gemological Institute of America — the world’s leading gemological laboratory.

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Girdle

The widest circumference of a diamond — the boundary between crown and pavilion.

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Grading

Systematic assessment of diamond quality according to standardized criteria.

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Halo Setting

A center stone surrounded by a ring of smaller diamonds.

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Heart Shape

A romantic heart-shaped cut — requires perfect symmetry.

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HPHT

High Pressure High Temperature — a method for treating and creating diamonds.

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HRD

Hoge Raad voor Diamant — the Antwerp diamond laboratory.

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Hue

The dominant spectral colour of a fancy coloured diamond, such as blue, pink, or yellow.

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Ideal Cut

A diamond with optimal proportions for maximum brilliance and fire.

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Inclusion

An internal imperfection in a diamond — a crystal, crack, or cloud.

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Irradiation

A treatment using electron or neutron bombardment to alter a diamond’s colour, often followed by annealing.

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Karat (Gold)

A measure of gold purity (24kt = pure gold). Not to be confused with diamond carat.

Kimberlite

A volcanic rock in which diamonds are found.

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Kimberley Process

International certification system preventing the trade of conflict diamonds.

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Lab-Grown Diamond

A diamond created in a laboratory using CVD or HPHT methods.

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Laser Drilling

A clarity treatment that uses a focused laser beam to create a channel to reach and bleach dark inclusions.

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Laser Inscription

A micro-engraving on the girdle of a diamond, typically the laboratory report number, used for identification.

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Loupe

A magnifying glass with 10× magnification used to assess clarity.

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Marquise Cut

An elongated cut with points at both ends.

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Measurements (mm)

The length, width, and depth of a diamond recorded in millimetres on a grading report.

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Melee

Small diamonds (under 0.2 ct), often used as accent stones.

Milky Diamond

A diamond with reduced transparency caused by sub-microscopic inclusions or structural irregularities.

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Mohs Scale

A mineral hardness scale from 1 to 10. Diamond = 10 (hardest).

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Natural Diamond

A diamond formed by natural geological processes in the Earth’s mantle.

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Oval Cut

An oval brilliant cut that makes the stone appear larger.

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Overweight Diamond

A diamond cut deeper than ideal proportions to retain carat weight, resulting in a smaller face-up appearance.

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Pavilion

The lower part of a diamond below the girdle — reflects light back through the crown.

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Pavilion Angle

The angle between the pavilion main facets and the girdle plane, critical for light return and brilliance.

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Pear Cut

A teardrop-shaped cut — a combination of oval and marquise.

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Photoluminescence (PL)

A spectroscopic technique using laser excitation to identify defect centres and detect treatments in diamonds.

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Plot

A diagram on a grading report that maps the location and type of a diamond’s clarity characteristics.

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Point

One hundredth of a carat. 100 points = 1 carat.

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Polish

The quality of a diamond’s surface smoothness resulting from the cutting and polishing process.

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Princess Cut

A square brilliant cut — the second most popular diamond shape.

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Prong Setting

Metal prongs holding a stone — the most common setting type.

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Proportions Diagram

A profile view on a grading report showing key angles, percentages, and measurements of a diamond’s cut.

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Radiant Cut

A rectangular cut combining step and brilliant cutting styles.

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Round Brilliant

The most popular diamond shape — 57 or 58 facets.

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Saturation

The intensity or purity of a fancy diamond’s colour, ranging from weak to vivid.

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Scintillation

Flashes of light and dark as a diamond moves.

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Solitaire

A jewel with a single center stone — the classic engagement ring style.

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Spread

The face-up size of a diamond relative to its carat weight; a well-spread stone looks larger for its weight.

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Step Cut

A cut with parallel facets — emerald and asscher cuts.

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Strain Patterns

Internal stress features visible under cross-polarised light; their character differs between natural and lab-grown diamonds.

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Symmetry

The precision of facet alignment — affects the play of light.

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Table

The largest facet on the crown — the top surface of a diamond.

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Table Percentage

The width of the table facet divided by the average girdle diameter, expressed as a percentage.

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Tension Setting

A stone held by the pressure of metal arms — appears to float.

Tone

The lightness or darkness of a fancy coloured diamond’s colour, ranging from very light to very dark.

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Twinning

A growth defect where the crystal lattice doubles.

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Type I / Type II

Scientific classification of diamonds based on nitrogen content and arrangement; Type I contains nitrogen, Type II is virtually nitrogen-free.

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UV-Vis-NIR

Ultraviolet-visible-near infrared spectroscopy, used to analyse colour origin and detect treatments in diamonds.

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VS Clarity

Very Slightly Included — minor inclusions visible only under magnification.

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VVS Clarity

Very Very Slightly Included — minimal inclusions, difficult to see under 10× loupe.

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Window Effect

A dark area in the center of a poorly cut stone where light "leaks" through.

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