Shape · Asscher
Asscher-Cut Diamond Engagement Rings
The Asscher diamond is a square step cut with strongly cropped corners, creating an octagonal outline and a concentric play of light and shadow — an effect likened to an endless hall of mirrors. It is the most distinctive diamond of the art deco era and suits anyone who loves clean geometry, calm and vintage elegance.
Thanks to its higher crown and smaller table, the Asscher offers more brightness and fire than is usual for a step cut. Its open facets, however, reveal the interior of the diamond fully — which is why with this shape it pays to reach for higher clarity and colour.
- GIA · IGI · HRD certificate from 0.30 ct
- Made in our Czech goldsmith workshop
- Diamonds selected with an emphasis on clarity
Collection · Asscher
Selected designs with an Asscher diamond
Choose an Asscher-cut diamond engagement ring to match your vision.
How it works
From consultation to the finished ring
Four steps — from the first consultation to handing over the finished ring with the diamond certificate.
- 01
Consultation
We discuss your vision, budget and timeline — in person or online. No obligation and at your own pace.
- 02
Choosing the diamond
We select a certified natural or lab-grown diamond according to the 4Cs specifically for your ring.
- 03
Design and crafting
We prepare the design, confirm the details and handcraft the ring in our Czech goldsmith workshop.
- 04
Handover and care
We hand over the ring with the diamond certificate. We offer engraving, resizing and lifetime jewellery care.
Why Asscher
The geometry and play of light of an art-deco classic
The Asscher is a square step cut whose long, parallel facets run in concentric rows from the table to the girdle. Instead of the quick flashes of a round brilliant, it draws the eye inward — light and dark planes converge symmetrically towards the centre and form a pattern likened to an endless hall of mirrors or to the slowly turning sails of a windmill. The strongly cropped corners give the diamond an octagonal outline while protecting the most vulnerable spots against chipping.
The shape originated in 1902 in Amsterdam and for an entire century has remained a symbol of art deco — geometry, symmetry and restrained elegance. Yet it also suits contemporary minimalism: its calm, architectural character stands out in a simple solitaire just as in a vintage setting. The Asscher is the choice for someone who is not after as much sparkle as possible, but rather order, depth and an unmistakable look.
What to look for in an Asscher
Clarity and colour are decisive
With the Asscher, clarity matters most among the 4Cs. The open step facets offer no fine "mosaic" of brightness to hide inclusions — what is inside the diamond is visible, and the concentric pattern can optically mirror and multiply a centrally placed inclusion. For an eye-clean look we therefore recommend clarity generally from VS2 upwards; at SI1 it is advisable to examine the diamond carefully. Colour shows more strongly in step cuts than in brilliants and likes to "settle" in the cropped corners — for a coolly white impression in platinum or white gold we choose colour D–F, with G–H being an excellent compromise.
A true Asscher should be square: a length-to-width ratio of 1.00–1.05∶1. Above this value the diamond looks more like a short rectangle and approaches an emerald cut. Moreover, the GIA does not grade fancy shapes such as the Asscher with a cut grade as it does the round brilliant, so we assess quality directly from the proportions, symmetry and photos or video of the specific diamond. We will happily go through everything together during a consultation.
Setting and metal
Solitaire, three stones and halo
The octagonal outline of the Asscher suits several setting styles. The purest design is a solitaire with corner prongs that follow the cropped corners and let the geometry and play of light stand out undisturbed. A classic art-deco composition is three stones with baguette diamonds on the sides — all straight planes and parallel facets in one line. An octagonal halo optically enlarges the diamond and frames its outline; a bezel setting fully embraces the diamond and looks modern and understated.
The choice of metal goes hand in hand with the colour of the diamond. A colourless Asscher (D–F) shines beautifully in platinum or white gold with a neutral, cool lustre. If you choose a warmer colour (I–J), yellow or rose gold complements it elegantly, its tone harmonising with the diamond rather than contrasting with it. A vintage setting with milgrain and hand-engraved shoulders then honours the art-deco origin of this shape.
Related
Browse further
Bespoke engagement rings
An overview of all shapes, metals and options — from consultation to the finished ring from our goldsmith workshop.
ShapeWith an Emerald diamond
The rectangular step-cut cousin of the Asscher — a long "hall of mirrors" and calm, timeless elegance.
ShapeWith a Cushion diamond
A cushion cut with softly rounded corners and sparkling brilliance — romantic and vintage at once.
Frequently asked questions
Consultation
Choose your bespoke Asscher diamond
During a no-obligation consultation we will go through clarity, colour, proportions and the setting together and select an Asscher diamond according to your vision. We will then make the ring to measure in our goldsmith workshop.